Classification of Cosmetics & Ingredients used in formulation

CLASSIFICATION:

·    Cosmetics are classified under two groups.

o   Group-1.According to their physical nature.

o   Group-2.According to the part of the body on which they are used.

Group-1 further divided as follows:

·         Aerosols: e.g. Perfume, Hair set etc.

·         Emulsion: e.g. Cold cream, Vanishing cream, Cleansing Cream

·         Jellies: Hand jelly, Brilliantine jelly etc.

·         Mucilages: e.g. Hand lotion etc.

·         Oils: e.g. Hair oils etc.

·         Paste: e.g. Tooth paste, Deodorant paste etc.

·         Powders: e.g. Face powder, Tooth powder, Talcum powder

·         Solution: e.g. Shampoos, After shave lotion etc.

·         Sticks: e.g. Lipsticks, Deodorant sticks etc.

·         Suspension: e.g. Lotion etc

INGREDIENTS OF COSMETICS

1.   Water:

• Stability and quality of final product is dependant on the purity of water

2.   Oils, Fats, Waxes:

• Fat Source
• Mineral source
• mineral oil
• paraffin and petroleum jelly
• Animal source
• Oils:

Name of oil  (Vegetable)	Use in cosmetics
Almond	Creams (emollient)
Arachis	Hair oil,
Castor	Lip stick, hair oil cream ,lotion
Olive	oils ,creams lotions
Type of mineral oil	Use in cosmetics product
Light liquid paraffin	In bath oil, hair oil, lotions, creams,
Heavy liquid paraffin	In bath oil, hair oil,lotions,creams, (emollient)

• Waxes: bees wax,  spermaceti, ceresin , ozokerite wax ,carnuaba wax, candelilla wax,ceresin wax, cetyl alcohol

3.   Humectants

Type of Humectant	Examples
1.Inorganic	Calcium chloride (not used now due to compatibility problems)
2.Metal organic	Sodium lactate (used in sunscreen lotions)
3.Organic	Polyethylene glycol, Propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol,  mannitol, glucose

4.   Surfactants

Type of surfactant	Examples
Anionic	Fatty acid soaps, alkyl sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, polyethylene glycol ester,alkyl ether sulphates taurines,sarcosinates etc.
Cationic	Alkyl trimethyl ammonium salts, Dialkyl dimethyl ammonium salts alkyl pyridinium salts, quaternised diamine salts.
Non ionic	Alkanolamides,alkyl polyglycol ether, thioethers, alkyl polyethyleneimine amides.
Ampholytic	Betains, alkylimidazolines, acyl peptides,etc.

5.   Preservatives

·         Types of preservatives:-

o   Anti-microbial agents: -

§  Benzoic acid, formaldehyde, cresol, phenol, thiomersol, phenyl mercuric salts.

o   Antioxidants :-

§  Gallic acid, methyl gallate, BHA, BHT, Tocopherol, citric acid, Ethanolamine, lecithin, ascorbic acid, sodium sulphite, Sodium metabisulphite

o   Antioxidant synergists: -

§  examples include:-ascorbic acid, citric acid, phosphoric acid

o   UV absorbers:-.

6.   Perfumes And Colors

•      Perfumes

Source of perfume	Example
Natural (Animal source)	Musk ,civet, Ambergris, Castroreum etc.
Natural (Plant source)	Rose ,jasmine, lemon, lavender etc.
Aroma chemical	Eugenol, Farnesal, Rose oxide, Citral ,Limonene
Floral base	Rose base, Jasmine base
Woody base	Citrus base(in colognes),spice base, oriental base, fruity base ,etc

1.   Natural colors:- 

a.       Plant source :-  e.g. Saffron, turmeric

b.      Animal source:-e.g. Cochineal (red)

2.   Inorganic colors:- e.g. Iron oxides, chromium oxides, carbon black, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide etc.

3.   Coal tar colors:- Tartrazine, amaranth, Erythrosine, Indigocarmine. etc.

7.   Herbal Or Plant Material

8.   Functional Raw Materials

 

TYPE	EXAMPLE &   USE
VITAMINS	Vit C (antioxidant in emulsion),vit A, Vit E (skin beautification)
AMINO ACIDS	AV HILL MP TT (all essential amino acids)
ANTI INFLAMMATORY  AGENTS	Allantoin (hand cream & lotion),Cade oil (eczema& psoriasis),Calamine
SUNSCREEN  AGENTS	PABA, Vitamin C, Quinine salts Coumarin derivatives
ANTIDANDRUFF	Selenium, cadmium sulphide, ZPTO

Reference:
Cosmetics : Science and Technology : Edward Sagarin & other

Thanks,